Robert Hargrove

How to Find a Good Chinese Restaurant

The Chinese have more than 4 billion people, and more restaurants—hundreds of millions not only in China, but in every country in the Global Village. There are several reasons for this: 1) we all love Chinese food and 2) restaurant work, followed by construction, is one of the main vehicles for the Chinese Diaspora—legal and illegal.

Growing up in the Boston area, my parents would take me to a Chinese restaurant once a month or so, and always order the same thing. 1) Mushroom Chow Yoke, 2) Chicago Chow Mien, 2) Beef and Broccoli. After the dishes were served, the customer in those days would take a little of each dish onto one’s plate and then mix them all up like a big mound, which my mother called “Mushy Kushy.”

Then we would kick-it-up a little bit with Duck Sauce and Hot Mustard. As you may know, most of the above dishes are strictly American inventions and not served in China—especially Mushy Kushy style.

Since those days in Boston’s Chinatown, I have become a world traveler to China and other destinations in Asia, which has made me a Chinese food aficionado. I have to say that Chinese food, either in a gourmet restaurant in Shanghai or a New York take-out restaurant compared to food in American restaurants is usually invariable not only very good, but very quick and very cheap to boot.

For example, in the summer I live in Ogunquit, Maine. A pound and a half boiled lobster costs almost $33, and takes almost 20 minutes to cook. By contrast, in Boston’s Chinatown, you can often get three and a quarter pound lobster with ginger scallion for $30. The lobsters are cooked ginger scallion style and often arrive at your table in less than five minutes flat.

The best part is that unlike most American and other ethnic restaurants, I almost never leave a Chinese restaurant thinking, “I can’t believe I ate the whole thing” – sick to my stomach. I usually walk out of the restaurant feeling strong, healthy, and ready to conquer the world.

As I am often in search of a good Chinese restaurant, I have developed certain selection criteria. My mother’s rule of thumb still holds true today. If there are lots of Chinese people eating there, it is probably a pretty good place.

Ask friends, people on the street: What is best Chinese restaurant in the area? I did this in San Francisco Chinatown and discovered the fabulous R&J Lounge, one of the best Chinese restaurants I have ever been too, featuring the local dish Giant Crab Ginger Scallion.

If you are not in the mood to talk to strangers, select a Chinese restaurant in your area and look at the menu posted on the wall. If they serve things like Lobster Ginger Scallion, Do Meeoow (peapod stems) a delicious vegetable, or Spicy Salty Squid, you have a reasonable chance of being in the right place.

However, before you enter the restaurant, look at the red carpet in the entrance way to the restaurant. Is it clean and new or does it look blackish, gummy and decidedly dirty? If so, turn and walk away and look for another place, as this is a sure sign of a non hygienic environment.

Also watch the attitude. Are the wait persons charming, polite, and at your service, offering a suggestion or two, or too absorbed in cleaning empty tables, rude, and arrogant? There is a small place I like in Boston called “Little Shanghai,” where the owner/wait person not only serves up delicious soup dumplings that squirt when you bite into them (Sha-Lom-Bau), but bows when taking the order or bringing food to the table.

If it’s a take-out restaurant, skip the menu and look in the window. You will usually see Chinese chefs with white paper hats preparing food, which is fine, but if you see someone inserting chemical red die # 3 soaked spare ribs into a grill oven to be used as appetizers, turn and run as fast as your feet will carry you. This is a sure sign of being served Americanized Chinese food and an FDA approved chemical feast.

Ok, here are some of my favorite Chinese restaurants in the Boston area and elsewhere. Each one of these is a cut above every other Chinese restaurant I have eaten in. (Write and let me know some of yours.) Each of these restaurants is as good or better than anything you will find in China.

• Peach Farm Restaurant. Tyler Street in Boston. This is a family favorite of both my brood, as well as many local Chinese. They feature the Lobster Ginger Scallion, Spicy Salty Squid, and Peapod Stems mentioned above.

• Little Shanghai. Boston Chinatown. This is a gem of a restaurant that, like Peach Farm, is in a basement and easy to miss. Try Sha-lom Bau (soup dumplings), fish with brown sauce, baby bok choy with mushroom.

• Little Q Hot Pot Restaurant. Quincy, Ma. This is a great treat. It’s sociable, delicious, and relatively inexpensive (great for a party). Sit down at a table with a hot pot in the middle and you will be served spicy broth or herb broth together with the freshest beef, lamb, noodles, vegetables. Cook the food in your hot pot and then dip it in the condiments. Wow!

• Sichuan Gourmet. Framingham, Ma. This may be the best Chinese restaurants I have been to in the USA, albeit a bit spicy. Try Beef Casserole, the excellent Kung Pao Chicken, sliced hot peppers and pork.

• Uncle Cheungs. Framingham, Ma is just across the street from SG above. I love the Shanghai Meatballs.

• Peking Duck House. Flushing, NY (near Shea Stadium). It is hard to tell you are not in China in Flushing. I found this great Peking duck place while strolling down the street. The Peking duck is served with scallions and pancakes. Yum!

• R&J Lounge, San Francisco. This slightly upscale, but noisy place is a real find. Amazing King Crab Ginger Scallion.

• Din Tai Fong, Taiwan. This is one of Taiwan’s greatest attractions. It is a Dim Sum and Dumpling place that has the lightest, freshest, sublime dumplings you could ever wish for. You order while waiting outside and the superb staff serves you your food the moment you sit down.